Amsterdam is often referred to as the Venice of the North and no truer name could be given to it, because of the massive canal system that Amsterdam is built around. The Amstel River is the only natural river and was once used to make beer. Back in the 1700’s, the water was so polluted that everyone drank beer, even children. The beer had a light alcohol content, but at one time a law was enacted that said no one was allowed to sign legal contracts after 4:00 pm because so many people were drunk by that time of day! All the canals around the Amstel River were man made and hand dug, to support the city’s ability to trade. The best way to see the city is by water, either on a cruise tour or renting a houseboat.
This winter trip was a last minute Priceline deal, we only booked it a few months prior to leaving. My husband saw a 1-week trip advertised to our favorite city, during his birthday in January, it was booked ten minutes later. Our favorite neighborhood in the North Jordan did not have a hotel option, but I pulled up the map and picked the Plaza Park Victoria Hotel. It had the most central location in Amsterdam, just across the street from the Central Train Station and a much nicer hotel than we typically splurge on when we are traveling. Don’t get me wrong, I like luxury, but Amsterdam is a very expensive location in Europe, so I try to save where I can and we don’t spend a lot of time in the room. However, this winter trip we spent a little more time in the room, warm and cozy from the windy, cold weather and minimal daylight hours.
The Victoria Park Place Hotel (a Radisson property) was modern inside and took up numerous buildings that were reconfigured on the inside. Due to these structural changes, there was a strange elevator situation. You take one elevator two floors up, then have to walk over a bridge to the next building before taking that elevator to the 7th (top) floor. Keep in mind, in Europe the ground floor starts at 0, not 1 and not all hotels and apartment buildings have elevators. It was a large room for Amsterdam standards, but with a small bathroom and the typical wet style shower with only a partial glass door to keep the floor dry from the shower. Our room had the best view of the train station and overlooked a few of the canals. The window was the best part of the room. Being able to watch the sunrise as well as the first winter snow in Amsterdam was beautiful.
Since Amsterdam is so expensive, a great way to get to travel here is with points, either airline, credit card or both points. Traveling on points is also the best way to get business or first class seats, a true luxury when traveling overnight on a flight. I’m still not there yet, since I think I can have two trips for the price of one business/first class ticket, even with points. Alternatively, there are many inexpensive European airline carriers that we often take to Europe. Lufthansa is a German carrier that will get you to many Central European cities to begin your trip or have connecting flights to favorite cities like Amsterdam. This trip we are trying out Icelandair and the next trip, Play airline, Iceland’s budget carrier (I had to look this airline up to make sure it wasn’t a scam, I had never even heard of Play airlines). We have also taken TAP Portugal from Miami to Amsterdam and had a great experience. One of the best tips I have used to search inexpensive flights is being open to dates and locations by searching on google flights. Put in your home airport, approximate dates and see what you can find domestically or internationally.
Typically, when we fly to Europe, there is one very long flight and one shorter connecting flight. This time, I had to book a positioning flight, since the deals were only out of East coast airports like Boston, New York and Washington D.C. First, we booked an inexpensive flight on Southwest from Denver to Boston. Thankfully, we had a long 4 hour layover, since we didn’t get out of Denver on time and were about two hours late to Boston. We did make it to Boston, collected all our bags, walked around the entire airport to the international terminal and made it to our flight with IcelandAir with just a few minutes to spare. The next flight was uneventful and even arrived a few minutes early. We did have to go through passport control in Reykjavik airport, since this was our first stop in the European Union, but we got a new stamp on our passports in return.
After a short layover in the small airport (they don’t even release the gate departure until 40 minutes before take off), we started to taxi to the runway, but stopped for a long time. My husband kept telling me that there was something on fire with lots of smoke on his side of the plane. When the captain came on to tell us what was delaying us, he said, “You never know what to expect in our beautiful country, today a volcano eruption is closing one side of the runway.” We were fortunate that we got to take off from the other runway, some of the flights after us didn’t make it to Amsterdam that afternoon. Never in a million years did I wake up that morning, thinking I would see an active, erupting volcano! We now get to check that off our bucket list of natural disasters and travel stories. On the way home, we had to check the volcanic ash report to ensure we would not have another interruption from nature. I remember European flights being grounded for a month in 2010 because of billowing ash, now I have a much better understanding of that situation.
One of the best ways to save money on European travel is choosing an off season time to visit, like winter in Northern Europe. For Amsterdam, these are the weeks after New Years, but before Tulip season brings the tourists and higher prices in March…even when it is still cold and wintery. You do have to make some concessions, you will need to pack more layers, boots and your coat and rain gear. I really wanted to just carry-on luggage with hubby on this trip, I always feel like I bring too much with me on these trips. I used to be such a great packer, back in the day and want to get back to that for our summer family trip. My husband thinks I’m just being cheap (why pay $95 for a suitcase when you shouldn’t have too), but it’s more about the ease of traveling around European cities, airports and train stations. Why drag two suitcases up numerous flights of stairs if you can just bring one and wear a backpack? I’m also hearing about more bags getting lost as well, so that’s another plus for carry-on only. Pop an air tag in any checked bag, so you can keep track of it yourself and not be at the mercy of the airline to find your lost bag. I failed my mission this trip, with Ken wanting to pack an extra coat and all our heavy winter gear. His big way to convince me to check a bag was to remind me that I would not be able to bring back any cheese souvenirs if we only carry hand luggage. I finally caved, I’ve been known to bring home 8-10 cheeses with me per trip. The goal is still on for the summer trip and I will enforce it with 3 kids in tow, everyone needs to be able to carry their own stuff, even up 3 flights of narrow Dutch staircases.
When packing for winter in Amsterdam, or anywhere in Northern Europe, think solid, neutral colors and rain/wind protection. Northern Europeans don’t wear lots of hoodies and you won’t find ugg boots anywhere (unless giving away another American tourist). I have learned to pack a capsule wardrobe, this time it is all black and camel colors. I packed two pairs of boots, a coat and even dressy clothes all around this theme. It allows everything to coordinate and me to pack less, yet still have options for warmer or cooler temperatures. One year we went to Amsterdam in March expecting cold weather and it was so warm I had to buy some short sleeve T-shirts and short socks. This trip I did a better job packing, wearing most of what I packed, except for the dressy clothes. With the winter weather being so bitter, we opted to dine at casual cafes and steakhouses and canceled the award winning restaurant reservations. There is always the next trip, especially with us!
What shoes to bring to Europe is a big question any time of year, especially in the winter. In Europe you are going to walk, all day, every day and night too. You want to bring at least 2 pairs of comfortable walking shoes; sneakers, hiking boots and waterproof boots are all good options. You also need sturdy shoes because you will literally be “Tripping through Europe.” My travel friend Cindy and I used to joke about “Tripping through Europe” when we moved there and traveled in our 20’s, there was always an uneven path, hole in the pavement or step out of nowhere to trip or wobble. The need for proper footwear just to avoid rolling an ankle is real. Be ready to walk 15,000 steps a day and in some cases much more! Expect that you will need to walk a lot of steps, at airports, train stations and the hotels without a life. Start a walking routine or increase your walks in the weeks leading up to any European holiday. Doing flights of stairs will also help, if you live in a flat area.
I typically like to book a boat cruise to see the sites in a town like Amsterdam, all connected by canals. We took a day trip to Haarlem and took a similar canal cruise to see the city better. Since we were trying to see many of the sites in just a single day, this was the perfect option. We took two other types of cruises, one path to point out the Light Festival art installations & the Buddha boat, a relaxing smoking cruise. The light cruise we could’ve skipped, it’s great to get to travel up the canals and see the canal houses and house boats, but the light installations themselves were not very impressive. Many of them looked like school children’s art projects and were a bit on the depressing side. Much of the light installation was centered around the theme that technology connects us all, yet people feel more alone and disconnected then ever before. It is a sad realization that this has been the trend across the world, not just in the States. Our expectation going in was that the lights were going to be festive and from the holiday’s, so it didn’t match our expectations. We’ve been on the Buddha boat before, so it certainly met our expectations and was as relaxing as usual. This is one of the two smoking cruises (weed only, no tobacco allowed) that allow you to experience the social side of cannabis culture. We sailed around the canals near central station, the gentleman’s canal to see the most expensive canal homes and went out to the Amstel river. The homes were taxed on their width, windows and front steps and depending on the canal you are traveling you can see the difference in wealth. I highly recommend this activity if you are interested in coffee shop culture, but in a more mature environment.
As marijuana has become legal in more cities and less stigmatized in America, you’d think the Dutch cultural attitudes about the substance would spread across the States, but it hasn’t yet. The coffeeshops in Amsterdam are much more than just dispensaries, you can purchase to go or enjoy a smoke in the coffeeshop (with the purchase of a drink). These coffeeshops are so different, everything from a hole in the wall for locals to a relaxing place to eat, drink & smoke with friends. Coffee shops are not like bars, you won’t see people getting angry or starting fights. The worst thing that happens is that young tourists think they have more of a tolerance than they really do with Dutch weed. After traveling far and wide, testing strains and coffeeshop vibes all over the city I’ve created my top 10 list of best coffeeshops. Number one is Greenhouse, it has stood the test of time, their products are superior year after year. There are six Greenhouse coffeeshops around the city, from the Red Light District to de Pijp, but only the one in the North Jordaan area on Harlemmerstraat has the amazing vibe my hubby and I have come to love. They have three rooms, all with different vibes and a full menu from breakfast to dessert. Here are my top ten favorite coffee shops, they are rated on the vibe of the coffeeshop, not price or strains. Top 10 Coffeeshops:
- Greenhouse (Haarlemmerstraat location is best to hang out)
- Coffeeshop Amsterdam
- Abraxas
- Green Place
- Kadinsky
- Dolphins
- Katsu (de Pijp)
- Bluebird (Rembrandt museum, East)
- La Tertulia (lower Jordan)
- Popeye
*Honorable Mention: Prix d’Ami for central location, size, amenities, etc. great for movie lovers and day trippers who arrive at Central Station. The vibe is a little young for me and not traditionally Dutch.
The best way to travel around the city is either by foot or by public transport including trams, trains and buses throughout the city. The public transportation service is reliable and connects every part of the city. Public transportation will also get you to the suburban areas of the city, take you directly to other cities in the Netherlands and even to European cities all over. I have traveled from Amsterdam by train to Paris, Brussels and Berlin over the years. Traveling by Train, Tram & public transport is the least expensive option to get to the airport, but it is not a direct train from Central Station. First you have to switch trains at Zuid station, then switch to be dropped off in Schipol airport. Passengers can add the GVB app on their phone to access schedules and purchase tickets and day passes or you can still show up at the station and purchase a ticket to suit your needs.
The Rembrandt House has been undergoing renovations for a few years and finally reopened recently. Located in the eastern side of the city, near waterlooplein station the Rembrandt house is located in his large, expensive canal home. Thankfully, there was a coat check so we didn’t have to drag our coats up the stairs and through the whole exhibit. Make use of the coat checks while traveling around Europe. No one wants to drag a heavy coat, winter gear & bags around a museum. There is a lot of taking winter gear off and on all day and makes us realize how simple our lives are with a coat thrown in the car. The audio guide takes you through the rooms, stories and tragedies of Rembrandt’s life as an artist in the home. The top floor was dedicated to his teaching studio where he was able to teach 3-4 students at a time to help pay for the cost of the home. I thought the history of the building and the artist was enjoyable, but the audio guide does go a bit too much into detail. My husband was disappointed that there were very few original Rembrandt paintings in the museum. Most of the paintings were inspired by Rembrandt’s style, but not his original artworks, any artist wants to see the originals.
We also visited the Our Lord in the Attic Museum in the Red Light District. This was a canal house that was lived in on the first 3 floors, then the 4th & 5th floor opened up to reveal a miniature Catholic Church. At certain points in Amsterdam’s history, only one religion was allowed, Protestantism. Other religions were tolerated, but they had to be hidden from public view just like this church. The attic level above the church was used for storage of the owners linen business, which also served as a cover for the church.
On this trip we spent time looking for the best brunch around Amsterdam and were pleasantly surprised by Ted’s All Day Brunch in the Jordaan area, but there are a few throughout the city and even in neighboring Haarlem. We had a fruit prosecco drink, two different open faced sandwiches on amazing Dutch brown bread and truffle rice balls. We enjoyed it so much, we visited the one in Haarlem the next day for the same meal! In addition to their all day brunch menu, Ted’s also serves high tea in the afternoon, traditional in service but with their own spin. This place gets very busy, so be sure to make a reservation well in advance. We also tried La Perla Pizza, in the Jordaan neighborhood after hearing about it for years. The pizza is amazing, but done in a European way. A thin, crispy crust from a pizza oven and lots of topping Europeans like such as salami and blue cheese, not your typical American pepperoni pizza.
We tried one other restaurant, but not for long. We had heard of Sea Palace, a Chinese restaurant that is made to a ⅓ scale of its parent restaurant in Mainland China. There were many mixed reviews, so we went in trepidatiously. After being seated in a very cool looking restaurant, one look at the minimal menu and hubby and I got up and walked out. There was nothing interesting, only a few simple meals on the menu and we were given a QR code to place our own order. All of these things led us to walk out of the restaurant and go to Oriental City, a tried and true restaurant with a great view of the Red Light District. Take it from us, Sea Palace is just a cool picture, but no need to get a reservation or wait in the long lines. It’s a tourist trap, go a little further East in the city and you will hit China town for better options.
In addition to Ted’s All day brunch, Miss B’s by La Grotte and The Breakfast Club/Lunch Club are all top choices and located on the western side of town, or have several locations. Honorable brunch mention goes to our favorite coffeeshop, Green House. They have amazing breakfasts that are served until 2:00 pm including a full English breakfast and their own take on eggs benedict on a pretzel bun that we couldn’t get enough of last week. Other sweet treats to try in Amsterdam are apple pie (especially at Winkel 43), crepes, dutch pancakes, poffertjes and treats from bakeries all over the city. We only had one disappointing bakery experience, leave it to the American bakery to let us down. I had heard that they have wonderful cakes served by the slice and cupcakes. I thought I’d get my hubby a cupcake on his birthday, but unfortunately the cake was super dry in all 4 cupcakes we tried. The frosting was great, but with all the amazing bakery options in the city we’ll skip this one in the future.
Toward the end of our trip I had to get serious about shopping for souvenirs. Luckily, my favorite cheese mongers are all located close to each other and I stocked up at my favorite, Old Amsterdam. I actually did a good job this time, going into only one cheese store and brought home 3 cheeses and a new cheese board. I was able to be conservative this trip because my middle son Aidan will be with me in a few months and he loves cheese just like I do. I am planning to take him to all the cheese stores, let him taste each to find his favorites and even book us a cheese tasting at one of the factories. Finally, someone who shares my love for cheese traveling to Amsterdam! Here are my top choices of where to buy cheese for gifts or souvenirs. Top Cheese stores:
- Old Amsterdam
- Amsterdam Cheese Company
- Lutejuwinkle cheese store & inn
- Kaasland (on Haarlemmerstraat) or cheese stalls at any of the food markets
- Cheese and More by Henri Willig (many people love this place, I think it’s over hyped)
We took the train from central station on a quick day trip to Haarlem, Amsterdam’s smaller (but older) sister city. This whole town is tiny and easily walkable. A crepe affair and the Frietkamer are famous for their snacks, and just steps from the train station. Grab your walkable snack of choice and head down the main street to the town square. Corrietenboom is said to be the Anne Frank of Haarlem. Be sure to make an online reservation well in advance, I’ve been here twice and both times they are closed! Finish your walking tour with a stop at Hofje van Bakenes (a green space in the city) and Gravestenenbrug Bridge before arriving at the Smidtje canal cruise port. Our cruise would’ve been more enjoyable if the heat had been working, but we had great views of Molen De Adriaan (windmill). Haarlem is also a great place to find less expensive hotel options and smaller crowds, choosing to split your trip time in both locations could save a bundle in the long run.
Haarlem is just one of so many day trips to take from Amsterdam or locations to explore around the diverse country of The Netherlands. I’ve explored Rotterdam, The Hague & Utrecht with Leiden and Gouda I’d still like to visit. This summer we will be checking Giethoorn and Zandvoort beach off the list and I can’t wait to experience both of them with my kids!
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