I was never much of a Christmas person growing up. It was more of an obligation than a celebration and involved so much driving and drama. As a young adult, I always had to travel great distances during the crowded holiday season as my burden for having moved. It wasn’t until I moved to Germany at 26 that I discovered the real meaning of Christmas and not its commercialized American version. Germany is often considered the BirthPlace of Christmas for its contribution of the Christmas tree (O Tannenbaum) and other German Traditions like Advent and St. Nicholas Day.
I remember teaching in Germany and one of the parents brought me an Advent wreath for the classroom. It was a horizontal pine wreath with 4 large pillar candles to be lit by the week during the four weeks of Advent, the time leading up to Christmas. Even though the young, American teacher I was at the time was terrified to leave an open flame in my classroom with 30 kids, I still make a wreath every year for my home to continue the tradition today with my own family.. Another Advent tradition, the advent calendar is more well known in the States and across Europe. This is one tradition I remember enjoying from my childhood and have continued it with my kids using the same wooden calendar with 24 boxes leading up to Christmas. My boys always loved this tradition and still do, even though they are 17 & 19 this year. My daughter still comes home every day from school in December to open the box and find a small present or note where to find a larger or odd shaped gift.
Saint Nicholas Day is celebrated on December 6th, when children clean and polish their shoes and boots and leave them outside their door the night before in hopes they will find sweets, treats and clementines in the morning. I’ve adapted this tradition into a room cleaning and toy donation event before the holiday, for a 21st century version and my kids typically get chocolate, candy canes and other treats and small toys in their shoes. At the end of the month, Christmas Eve is when many German families exchange gifts and most of Germany is shut down by 2:00 pm and will remain closed through Boxing Day. December 25th is known as “Erster Feiertag” which translates to “first celebration day.” By this day, Christmas is winding down for the year and celebrated with lots of good food. However, what Germany is most well known for is their traditional Christmas Markets known as Christkindlmarket. Every Christmas lover needs to visit the markets at least once in a lifetime, but anyone who struggles with the Christmas Spirit should visit annually to learn about the true meaning of Christmas.
Germany and it’s Famous Christmas Markets
Fröhliche Weihnachten! or Merry Christmas from Germany. Germany is filled with tons of Christmas Markets that visitors could spend the whole Advent season traveling around to check out. Be sure to bring an extra suitcase to bring home all your Christmas gifts and specialities. Check out some of the best Christmas Markets in Germany in these famous spots:
- Frankfurt am Main has a single Christmas market in the historic quarter of the city near Römerburg and Paulsplatz, down the river. This market goes back to the 14th century and has developed two specialities: the Brenten & Bettmännchen and the Quetschemännchen. Frankfurt is a modern looking city that is the economic and banking capital of Germany, so naturally it is one of the markets that has exported its Christmas market goods to a number of British cities since 1997.
- Köln (known to Americans as Cologne) has 7 separate markets and is one of the top stops for Christmas Market tourists. Two of the best are found around the Cologne Cathedral with its decorated tree and the Nikolausdorf near the Belgian Quarter.
- Heidelberg is a sweet town on the Romantic Road and they offer a traditional German Christmas market experience called the Heidelberger Weihnachtsmarkt. The 17th century riverside town has Heidelberg Castle right in town and the market is found across 6 squares of the town.
- Stuttgart Christmas market is over 300 years old and known for its amazing decorations. Each year a competition is held for the best decorated stall out of its 200- 300 stalls. Enjoy a glühwein, sweets and Christmas treats or get your shopping done in the stalls.
- Esslingen is the host of the Adventure Medieval Market & Christmas Market. The Medieval Market takes over the city during Advent and takes visitors on a journey through time with merchants from hundreds of years ago. Daily children’s programs include stilt walkers, jugglers, acrobats, storytellers and minstrels & dancers. Finally, a traditional Christmas Market is held with over 80 booths, a carousel and candle workshop. Classic decorations and nativity figures decorate the stalls selling wooden toys, natural clothing and jewelry.
- Münich has more than one market, but the Müncher Christkindlmarkt is the biggest and it is held at Marienplatz square. They have over 130 stalls of food, workshops and puppet shows for kids with the largest nativity. The famous Krampus run is held annually, with musical performances, Christmas Carols and traditional music from the Town Hall.
- Dresdner Striezelmarkt had its first 1-day Christmas Market back in 1434 and is considered the first genuine market in the world. The 590th anniversary of this market has a Ferris wheel and over 200 stalls of things to eat and buy to keep that Christmas spirit going. There are also a number of smaller markets such as the Neumarket or Neustadt that can be visited for a more intimate experience.
- Leipzig hosts one of Germany’s oldest and largest Christmas Markets with over 250 stalls held on Marktplatz. The giant Saxon Spruce Christmas tree is the centerpiece of this festival that has been held since 1458. This market has a traditional medieval market, performances on the market square stage and lots of treats to eat and drink.
- Trier Christmas Market is a relatively new market, having been held for only 40 years. This German town is located close to the Luxembourg border and the market can be found surrounding the Trier Cathedral with 100 booths and family-friendly programming each day such as puppet theater performances and Christmas concerts.
- Berlin was my first experience with Christmas Markets and I remember how beautiful that transformation was during the gloomy winter season. There are more than 60 Christmas markets in Berlin, so friends and I would visit a new one each weekend. I lived just off Kurfürstendamm so I would visit the Breitscheidplatz Christmas market many times a season, plus the biggest market is the Old Berlin-style market at the City Hall with a Ferris wheel and skating rink. A few Berlin markets are even open after the holiday, allowing for a few more festive days before the deep plunge into the dark winter.
- The Düsseldorf Christmas market takes over the entire city center with themed markets and offers over 200 decorated huts to explore. Ferris wheels are popular ways to enjoy the market’s lights and sipping hot mulled wine called glühwein, but at this market you can even buy gifts directly from glassblowers and painters.
- The Braunschweig Christmas Market has been held since 1505 in the Old Quarter around Braunschweig’s Cathedral. The 130 stalls offer wooden toys, leather goods, jewelry and famous illuminated Christmas stars. The glühwein is served with a shot of local Braunschweiger Mumme, a traditional malt extract. There are also Christmas concerts, life-size nativity scenes and an ice skating rink.
- The city of Nuremberg is known as “the little city of wood and cloth” and holds its annual Christkindlesmarket in the Main Market Square. The market is known for selling its famous Rauschgold angels, wooden nutcrackers, nativity scenes and colorful stars. Try the gingerbread cookies called lebkuchen and a bratwurst to have the complete German culinary experience. If you have children, go to the Christmas-themed city on Hans-Sachs-Platz with entertainment and hands-on activities for kids.
- Rothenburg ob der Tauber is a medieval walled town that is transformed into a picture-perfect, half-timbered fairy tale. A local treat called schneeballen (snowballs) is made from shortcrust pastry dough, balled up and fried and coated in confectioners’ sugar.
- Rüdesheim has the annual Christmas Market of Nations that is a nontraditional German Market held for the past 30 years. More than 20 countries from 4 continents get together in the Rhine Valley to sell unique goods and specialities. Don’t miss the highlight of this market, the traditional St. Thomas Night parade.
French Christmas Customs
The French are also known to go all out during Christmas with all the typical lighting of the streets and classic Christmas decorations making the beautiful French architecture even more spectacular. Advent is celebrated here, as in most European areas with calendars of treats that countdown to Christmas Day. Santa is called Pere Noël or Father Christmas and letter writing to him is taken very seriously. French law since 1962 states that any letter to Santa must be responded to by postcard, ensuring happy French children all over the country. Unless they were naughty children, because like many European traditions there is a Pere Fouettard who accompanied Pere Noël to spank all the children not getting presents this year. Finally, nativity scenes known as a creche are fancy decorations with many more figures than the traditional Holy family of three. These nativity scenes are displayed until February 2nd, a full 40 days after Christmas
The term Alsatian (or Alsacien person) refers to a region in the easternmost region of France next to the German and Swiss border. This region on the Rhine River has flip-flopped between being considered German or French for centuries and the combination of both cultures makes it a natural location to find many of the famous (and more traditional) Christmas Markets.
- Paris is certainly the easiest location to experience French Christmas markets and they have some of the best holiday shopping in France. These traditional German markets used to be an annual trip for the French to their border country Germany or at least to the Alsace Region next to Germany. However, since the 1990’s these markets have become quite popular and are spreading around the French capital in areas like Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Avenue des Champs-Elysé and Trocadero.
- Strasbourg is called the Christmas Capital of Europe and for good reason, the first edition of the famous Christekindelsmärik was held in 1570. This authentic market with a traditional Alsatian Christmas feel is the first place to go if you can get out of Paris to experience a Christmas Market. During Advent, the town gets all decked out with thousands of lights and decorations that start twinkling in the early evening, as dark approaches. Christmas carols ring out from the churches and a 30 meter tree is brought to Place Kleber to be decorated with lights and ornaments. 300 chalets are set up around the city center with merchants and craftsmen to help visitors find unique gifts.
- Obernai is very close to Strasbourg, just about 30 minutes by car and is known as the Foodie Christmas Market because the entire market is dedicated to food and crafts. 40 chalets set up in front of the Belfry with delicious treats like spiced bread, foie gras, bredele and special Christmas beer or mulled wine. The Obernai mulled wine is different, made with white wine and simmered with spices in a huge cauldron; it has a unique Alsatian taste of Christmas. Choose from the highest quality crafts and gifts such as Christmas wreaths, wooden decorations and hand-blown items. In addition to the market, Obernai has a series of events and activities held during Advent such as concerts and storytelling walks.
- Riquewihr is a typical Alsatian town with beautiful architecture to enhance the backdrop to its famous Christmas Market. The half-timbered facades are decorated with lights and window boxes with Christmas flowers to create a fairy-tale atmosphere. These smaller town Christmas markets are linked together and easy to travel to by train, only 10-30 minutes rides throughout the Alsatian region.
- The Kaysersberg is often considered the most authentic of all the Alsatian Christmas markets and is on the way to Colmar. Kaysersberg translates to Mountain of the Emperor and this town lives up to such a grand name. When the Advent season begins, this picturesque village transforms into a winter wonderland with rustic decorations, warm lights and a festive atmosphere to attract those looking for the classic Christmas Spirit in Alsace.
- Colmar is another very famous Christmas Market in France that rivals Strasbourg and is only 30 minutes by public transport. The ambiance of the Old Town with lights and decorations sets a spectacular holiday scene. There are six different markets throughout Colmar’s Old Town, but can easily be accessed by foot since the city is small. These markets are small too, only ⅓ of the Strasbourg market’s size and can all be seen on the same day. This is why renting a car is helpful, to be able to get to all the great markets in this impressive eastern region.
- Montbeliard is a town in Eastern France which is often battling for the most beautiful market in France award. This town revives the tradition of Württemberg and turns into a winter wonderland of 160 stalls with high-quality and authentic decorations and items. In addition to a traditional German feel, this market also has many food products from Montbeliard and France in general.
- Metz France holds its annual Christmas Market on its six main squares. This market kicks it up a notch with ice sculptures at the Frozen Fairyland, a magic forest walk and all the traditional fun like glüwein and hot chocolate. Enjoy traditional treats like a merry-go-round and classic culinary delights.
- The Christmas market in Arras makes the top 10 list year after year due to its magical setting of the Grand’Palace, a Flemish Baroque styled main square that holds both its regular markets and Christmas markets. A forest with Christmas trees is the backdrop to this market with 140 artisans and stall owners. This area of France is west of Paris near Dunkirk and Belgium and has less of a German feel.
- Lille, France turns into a winter wonderland after it transforms into the Advent market. More than 80 chalets filled with gifts, nativity figurines, decorations and festive foods. There are regional specialities as well as international crafts from Russia, Poland, Quebec and more.
European Christmas Spirit
It’s no secret that Amsterdam in the Netherlands is our second home and even though we have not been in the city on actual Christmas Day, we have enjoyed it during Advent and right after New Years to experience many of the Holiday traditions. Christmas Markets are not like the traditional Bavarian markets held in Germany and France, rather they are the typical markets held around the city, but with additional handmade ornaments and gift options. The oliebollen is a special Dutch donut that is only available in the season before Christmas and will be found in many of the markets in addition to the delicious warm stroopwafels that you must try freshly made! Traditional markets held nearby in Haarlem and Valkenburg. There are handmade arrangements, the main squares are lit up, there are photo spots in the main square with illuminated hearts or presents and my favorite decorations are the lit cursive names of all the main streets in Amsterdam across the threshold. I have not seen this in any other town or city and give the Dutch Capital its own unique decorations. Each winter, there is a light installation found around the city with different themes annually. These artists create their vision of the theme that can be seen by foot and canal cruise around the city throughout January.
The Dutch have their own version of Santa mixed with Saint Nickolas, but in a much scarier outfit. Sinterklaas arrives on the evening of December 5th in a Dutch city with his helpers called Pieten and one special Pieten called Zwart Piet. They give gifts to good children in their shoes left out by the fireplace or outside the door. The tradition also says that they discipline naughty children by beating them with giant stick brooms…nice way to add a little cheer to the holiday. If your children are too scared of Sinterklaas, take them ice skating in front of the Rijksmuseum or to the ARTIS Royal Zoo on Christmas Eve.
Prague, in the Czech Republic, is purely magical when the medieval streets come alive with twinkling lights, festive decorations and Christmas Markets. These markets have a more traditional German feel to them, with their own traditional foods like Old Prague ham, roasted chestnuts and sizzling sausages. Prague is known for enjoying Advent wreaths like the Germans as well as the Krampus character. Krampus is a horned demon who punishes naughty children, maybe this is why American children are so spoiled around the holidays, they need a Krampus or Sinterklass character to keep them in check. The Czech Republic has a nationally recognized nativity scene with over 2,000 carved pieces. Here, Christmas Operas are popular in addition to caroling and concerts.
Vienna & Salzburg are picture perfect Christmas cities in Austria to visit for Christmas markets and seasonal traditions. This city is the birthplace of Motzart and was also the setting of “The Sound of Music” which seems to play on repeat around the holidays. Visiting medieval castles, going ice skating and enjoying the views of the Alps all set the stage for the winter wonderland. In Vienna there are 12 major markets to choose from including the Christkindlmarkt, Belvedere, Schönbrunn, Altesakh, Stephansplatz, Am Hof, Freyung, Maria-Theresien-Platz, Karlsplatz, Spittelberg, Michaelerplatz and Hirschstetten; plus other smaller markets.
Zurich, Switzerland is another European location with perfect white Christmas traditions. Zurich has a few Christmas markets with the biggest being Wienachtsdorf, the oldest being Niederdof and check out Werdmühleplatz with kids for the famous singing Christmas tree. The only indoor Christmas market is the Christkindlmarket and is held in the main train station. Go to the Lindt Chocoloateria which is the biggest chocolate shop in the world for its special holiday chocolate courses. Another culinary delight in Switzerland is trying a fondue or raclette restaurant, which is traditional for Christmas Eve dinner. Baracca Zermatt offers mountain chalet experience with incredible fondue variations. In Winter, Zurich’s Landesmuseum transforms its inner courtyard with lights and displays. Be sure to catch the show Illuminarium, a combination of synchronized lights and projections to music. Another way to celebrate the season is to enjoy a seasonal pop-up bar, becoming more and more popular. Enjoy a holiday inspired cocktail or homemade mulled wine with music and decorations that will stun you and set the mood the moment you step in the door.
Tallinn, Estonia might not be the most popular European city to visit, but the world-famous Christmas market was named 2019’s best Christmas market in Europe and has lots of visitors each holiday season. Flights are very cheap to Estonia and if you travel to Lavia too you can enjoy some of the least expensive spas in Europe. The wooden market stalls and enormous Christmas trees set the scene. Their drink of choice is a cup of glögi and eat gingerbread cookies. Typical Estonian Christmas dinner includes roasted potatoes, pork, sauerkraut, black pudding and lingonberry jam. You can try some of these traditional foods at the markets too. Children can see Santa, who is the MC for the weekend events.
Brussels is the capital of Belgium and the most visited city, but overrated in my opinion and really only needs a day to see. Instead, spend your time in Belgium exploring places like Antwerp and Brugge. Brugge is particularly great to visit at Christmas time because of the two Christmas Markets. They are both considered some of the best in Europe and take over the heart of the city with stands and wooden chalets. Everything from handmade ornaments to waffles are sold and don’t miss the special Belgium hot chocolate. The chocolate and waffles are what my children remember the most of their time in Belgium and Advent is the perfect season to experience it.
London is always a magical place to visit at Christmastime with hung lights, holiday markets, themed pop-up bars and ice skating rinks. London is famous for its Christmas shopping on streets like Seven Dials, famously decorated Harrods and 12 Christmas markets around the city. Christmas shows are popular whether it’s caroling at Royal Albert Hall or the Barbican Center, a multi-arts venue. London goes all out with its lights and there are light bus tours to see some of the best or you can go to Trafalgar Square. Christmas dinner is one of the meals the British are known to do well, so be sure to make a reservation for Christmas lunch or dinner at Westminster Abbey, Bluebird, Gaucho or Cote Brasserie for a memorial holiday meal.
Edinburg, Scotland is lit up with a holiday glow from its famous Castle and an annual Castle of Light event that draws crows to see the projected displays on the 12th century structure. Visit one of the Christmas markets for glühwein or visit The Dome for afternoon tea in this stately Georgian tea room decorated for the season. Other holiday experiences are to go ice skating on George Street or stay for New Years to participate in Hogmanay, Scotland’s end of year celebration. The Hogmanay festival includes a torchlight procession, concerts and a disco for diversity.
Rovaniemi, Finland is the best place to celebrate Christmas, especially if you are after a white Christmas, which is almost always guaranteed here and the best chance of seeing the famous Northern Lights. Rovaniemi is known as Santa’s hometown and the capital of Lapland. Santa Claus Village and SantaPark are where you will find Santa and his reindeer. Visitors can even stay in an igloo hotel for 360-degree views of the Aurora Borealis.
A traditional Christmas Spirit can be found in locations all across Europe, especially with its history of Christianity and separation into new religions. Even if you have been to many of these European cities, towns and cities take on a whole new perspective and often have a different market or experience to offer. Christmas is about celebrating traditions and some delicious foods with friends and family…not the material possessions that marketers are trying to convince you will make the holiday. Instead, take you family on a Christmas trip in Europe, especially once the kids are a little older and can enjoy the setting so they grow up with that same Christmas Spirit.
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